Original text

Published June 09, 2020

While many people were supporting local businesses during the pandemic by picking up carryout food, people in the Shawano area were lining up for a beer.

Stubborn Brothers Brewery, located in the totally transformed Crescent Theater in downtown Shawano, found itself in the middle of chaos when Gov. Tony Evers' safer-at-home order went into effect in March. Aaron and Erik Gilling, brothers and owners, had spent three and a half years renovating the historic structure. Finally, right in the midst of a soft opening, they were forced to close. "You can't plan for the unexpected," Aaron Gilling said. "It took about a month to get plans in place because no one knew what was going to happen. We focused on getting the rest of our kitchen finished and our building to where we fully wanted it. Then we decided, why not start selling beer? We were getting calls every day asking when it would be available."

After getting the word out, cars lined up for blocks to pick up growlers and howlers of one of four selections of beer.

"It was incredibly successful," Aaron said.

It is also a good indication of the support that the brewery, now open, can expect. It is a dream in the making; one that began in 2012 when Aaron and his wife started to homebrew as a hobby and fell in love with it. Eric started to join in and became convinced that they needed to start a brewery.

"I started because I thought it would be a fun hobby, but Eric is never one to rest on his laurels, and he saw the growth in the craft beer revolution," Aaron said. "I was hesitant, but in the end, he won."

On their website, Aaron says that he never wanted to open a brewery.

"A brewery requires tireless work and effort," he said. "And you have to wait almost a month to find out if your brew is successful. If your brew fails, you start all over again and throw your hard work down the drain."

Erik, on the other hand, always wanted to start a brewery. But as the pair began their adventures, Erik, who also works as a dentist, had to help with the family farm.

He remains involved in the business, but the operational aspects belong to Aaron, who is also a physical therapist.

It was the brothers' other occupations that allowed them to save up for a down payment for the building in Shawano. They had spent years considering other locations but found Shawano to be extremely welcoming and anxious to have them in the community.

Shawano helped with TIF financing, and a city loan and funds were borrowed from a local lender. Obtaining the support was likely due to the vision that they had. Aaron says their business plan numbered almost 100 pages and included solid market research. He put together financial projections with the help of other brewery owners, including one from Great Dane Brewery in Madison who, he says, poured his heart and soul out to them.

There was trial and error along the way. As dairy farmers, they thought they could purchase and modify used dairy equipment, but found they needed the actual brewing equipment. That led them to tow a cattle trailer across the country to Austin, Texas, where they found a good deal.

"We were pretty broke and didn't want to pay for shipping," Aaron said.

With the equipment in hand, the original plan was to open a small, three-barrel brewery, but that plan expanded with the purchase of the Crescent Theater. They now plan on seven to 15 barrels, and currently, brew about 210 gallons. The building includes a beautiful 20,000-square-foot ballroom that will be able to hold 250 people once size restrictions are lifted. Bookings are being accepted.

They have hired a top chef and will be serving upscale pub fare with new twists on classics. The staff numbers about 25, and Aaron raves about his "great team." The focus is on providing a fun and unique experience.

Aaron and Erik also have the fun of naming their India pale, farmhouse, brown, and amber ales, and stouts some of the 24 beers on tap with names that recognize local landmarks. The hardest thing to agree on might have been the business name.

"The name actually changed three times," Aaron said. "We kept arguing among ourselves and someone said, 'Name it after yourselves you are just Stubborn Brothers.'" 

Tina Dettman-Bielefeldt is co-owner of DB Commercial Real Estate in Green Bay and past district director for SCORE, Wisconsin.